How to Turn Your Old Refrigerator into a Kegerator

Nothing says “weekend hero” like pouring draft beer from your very own keg. If you have an extra fridge in the garage or basement, you’re already halfway there.

Follow along to learn how to safely turn a standard refrigerator into a simple, door-mounted “kegerator.”

Warning: Modifying an appliance can void warranties and, if done incorrectly, damage the fridge. When in doubt, call a pro.

Step 1: Make Sure Your Fridge Is a Good Kegerator Candidate

Not every refrigerator wants to live that draft-beer life.

• Go full-size if possible: A standard refrigerator fits a full keg and often a CO₂ tank. Under-counter or mini-fridges can work, but dimensions get tight. 
• Determine which size of keg you’re going to use: Too big and you’ll get sick of it, might go bad. Too small and you may as well have just bought a 24 pack.

Keg Size Info: Keg Sizes (most common in the US)

Gallons	Beers (~12oz)	Height	Diameter
15.5	~165	23″	16″
7.75	~82	14″	16″
7.75	~82	23″	11″
5.16	~55	23″	9″
5	~53	25″	9″

• Use a refrigerator you’re not afraid to drill into: Modifying your fridge can void warranties and will leave permanent holes.
• Make sure it actually cools well: If the fridge struggles to hold temp now, it will not make a great kegerator.

Unplug the fridge, empty it, remove the shelves and drawers, and clean and sanitize it so you have a clear floor for the keg.

Step 2: Gather Your Kegerator Parts & Tools

The easiest way to do this project is with a door-mount kegerator conversion kit. A typical kit includes:

• Beer faucet and tap handle
• Faucet shank (the metal tube that passes through the door)
• Beer line (usually 3/16″ ID food-grade tubing)
• CO₂ tank (often 5 lb)
• CO₂ regulator
• Keg coupler (D-system for most U.S. commercial kegs)
• Gas (CO₂) line and hose clamps
• Drip tray
• Cleaning kit

You’ll also need:

• Power drill with ~1″ hole saw (check your shank’s spec)
• Small drill bit for a pilot hole
• Screwdrivers and an adjustable wrench
• Utility knife
• Tape measure and marker
• Safety glasses
• Food-safe silicone sealant (optional, to seal around the shank)
• Thermometer (to verify actual beer temperature)

Step 3: Plan Your Tap Location Before You Drill

This is the part where people either get a perfect kegerator or a dead fridge.

Why the Door Is Usually the Safest Place

When converting a refrigerator or freezer into a kegerator, the biggest risk is drilling into refrigerant lines. Puncturing a line can instantly kill the cooling system.

Refrigerant lines are usually mounted in the walls and not in the door, and the door is generally the most foolproof place to install the faucet shank. Drilling through the side can hit a coolant line, so door mounting is the easier, safer option.

Our advice: Mount your tap through the fridge door, not the side or top, unless you’ve confidently identified where all lines are located.

If You Must Drill Somewhere Else

If you’re considering a side or top mount (for a tower or special layout), use a proven method to locate refrigerant lines first:

• Brush a thin cornstarch-alcohol mixture over the area, set the fridge to its coldest setting, and wait 10–20 minutes. The cold coils MAY leave a “ghost” pattern in the mixture, showing where not to drill (but this works better on older models, which weren’t insulated as well).

If you’re not totally sure where you can drill, call a professional before you get yourself into trouble.

Step 4: Mark a Comfortable Pouring Height

With the door chosen, you want the tap at a comfortable height. We recommend aiming for about 48 inches from the floor for the faucet center, which is high enough for easy pouring without crouching, but low enough that the tap handle doesn’t block the freezer door on a top-freezer fridge.

Before you drill, open the door and check for:

• Door bins or shelves that will interfere with your shank and lines
• Built-in ice/water dispensers or wiring you absolutely don’t want to hit

Mark your final faucet location with a marker.

Step 5: Drill the Door and Install the Shank

First, drill the hole:

1. Unplug the fridge if you haven’t already.
2. Put on safety glasses.
3. From the front of the door, drill a small pilot hole where you marked the tap location.
4. Use your hole saw (around 7/8″–1″, depending on the shank) to cut the main hole straight through the door. We recommend a 1″ hole for standard shanks.
5. Clean out any loose foam or metal shavings.

Next, install the shank:

• Slide the shank through the hole from the outside.
• On the inside of the door, slide on any included backing plate, then the washer and locknut. Tighten it until the shank is snug, but don’t crush the door insulation.
• If you want a cleaner, more sealed finish, run a thin bead of silicone around the shank where it meets the outer door skin.

Attach the faucet:

• Thread the faucet onto the shank’s coupling nut and tighten with a spanner wrench. Be careful not to over-torque it! You’ll want to be able to easily remove it for cleaning.
• Install your tap handle and position it facing forward, then tighten the collar to lock the orientation.

If your kit includes a drip tray, mount it about 12 inches below the faucet so you can fit taller glasses.

Step 6: Set up the Keg, Lines, and CO₂

In this step, you are ready to get the keg and tank into place, then connect beer and gas lines.

Position the Keg and CO₂ Tank

1. Place the keg on the floor of the fridge.
2. Decide whether your CO₂ tank will live inside or outside the fridge:
   1. Inside is simpler (no extra holes).
   2. Outside saves interior space but requires drilling a smaller hole for the gas line.
   3. Either way, keep it upright for safety and secure it! If a CO2 tank tips on its side, liquid CO2 can enter the regulator, which can damage it, cause dangerous over-pressurization of the keg, or blow beer lines off fittings.

Connect the Beer Line

1. Attach one end of the beer line to the back of the shank inside the door (there’s usually a barbed or threaded connection).
2. Route the line to your keg coupler and secure it with the included nut or clamp, depending on your kit.
3. Make sure any washers supplied with the kit are in place so you don’t get leaks.

Connect the Gas Line and Regulator

1. Attach the gas line to the gas-out barb on the regulator and secure it with a hose clamp.
2. Attach the other end of the gas line to the gas inlet on the keg coupler and clamp it.
3. With the CO₂ tank valve closed, thread the regulator onto the tank and tighten with a wrench.

Quick Tip: Dipping the end of stiff gas line tubing in hot water for a minute makes it easier to push onto the fittings.

Step 7: Set the Right Temperature and Pressure

Proper draft beer is all about a balance of temperature and pressure.

Temperature: Chill to 36–38°F

Most draft beer resources and kegerator how-to articles recommend 38°F as the standard serving temperature for a typical American lager or ale:

1. Set the fridge thermostat to the cold side and use a thermometer inside the fridge to see where it actually lands.
2. Aim for 36–38°F after the fridge stabilizes.
3. Let the keg sit in that cold fridge for at least 24 hours before you tap it so the beer fully chills and settles. This is also a great way to avoid foamy first pours!

CO₂ Pressure: Start Around 10–12 PSI

Carbonation charts can be complex, but most homebrewers and kegerator owners agree that around 10–12 PSI is a good starting point for many beers at 36–38°F.

1. Make sure the regulator’s adjustment screw is backed out (low pressure).
2. Open the main valve on the CO₂ tank.
3. Turn the regulator adjustment screw until the low-pressure gauge reads 10–12 PSI.
4. Lock the adjustment by tightening any locking nut or set screw.

You can always fine-tune your kegerator’s temperature and pressure later based on pour quality and the beer style.

Step 8: Tap the Keg, Check for Leaks, and Pour a Beer

Time for the fun part! With the temperature and pressure set and the keg fully chilled:

Tap the keg:

• Attach the coupler to the keg valve.
• Twist to lock, then push the handle down (for a typical D-system coupler) so beer and gas can flow.

Check for gas leaks:

• Mix a little dish soap and water in a spray bottle.
• Spray all gas connections (tank, regulator, line clamps, coupler).
• Watch for bubbles. Any bubbling spot means a leak you should tighten before moving on.

Pour your first test beer:

• Hold the glass at a 45° angle.
• Open the faucet fully (cracking it halfway causes extra foam).
• Straighten the glass near the end of the pour to build a small head.

The first pour or two may be foamy as the beer and lines finish cooling. Once everything is at temp, you should get a steady, smooth pour.

Step 9: Keep Your DIY Kegerator Clean (So the Beer Stays Good)

Great beer can turn bad quickly if you don’t clean your beer lines regularly:

• Clean your beer lines every month, or at least every time you change kegs, using a line cleaning solution through the beer lines, faucet, and coupler.
• Rinse thoroughly with clean water afterwards.
• Wipe down the faucet and drip tray regularly.

Skipping line cleaning leads to bacteria, mold, yeast, and beer stone buildup, which causes bad flavors, cloudy beer, and foaming problems.

When to Call Your Hometown Hero Instead

We love a good DIY project as much as anyone, but there comes a point when your fridge needs a technician, not more hardware. Call Hometown Hero Appliance Repair if:

• Your converted kegerator won’t hold temperature or freezes your keg
• The refrigerator runs nonstop or warms up after you drilled the door
• You think you hit something you shouldn’t have (wiring, sealed system, etc.)
• You’d rather have a trained tech look things over before you trust the fridge with a full keg

Our refrigerator repair heroes have been keeping appliances running strong in Omaha, Lincoln, Des Moines, and Kansas City for more than 35 years. Whether you’re converting an old garage fridge into a kegerator or just trying to keep your everyday refrigerator happy, we’re here to help.